Minami

I emerge from the Namba subway into one of Osaka’s most vibrant districts - Minami. I head first to the market of Kuromon-Ichiba, where an incredible array of items are on offer from live fugu (blowfish) and crabs , to plastic food models, myriad sake flasks and bizarre looking utensils. From there, I take the narrow alleys of Hozenji-yokocho, for a small glimpse of Old Osaka before emerging onto the bustling Dotombori [pictured], lined with restaurants that are seemingly engaged in eternal competition over who can display the most extravagant animatronic models above their shopfronts. I note the location of Kani Doraku - easy to spot on account of the huge crab waving its pincers at the passersby - but I’m not quite ready for my crab feast so continue on into Amerika-mura, where it seems someone has gathered the top percentile of freakish Los Angeleans and dropped them on unsuspecting Osaka, where they peddle besloganed t-shirts, denim and leather. Suitably dazzled by the people and décor of Minami, I loop back around to Kani Doraku for my long anticipated crab feast.

After admiring the tanks of crab, I take my seat at the restaurant. Kani Doraku translates very roughly as ‘crab - enjoy as you like it,’ and the house specialty is a five course crab dinner. I opt for this and am not disappointed as the following delights make their way to my table: crab miso soup, crab tempura (expertly fried with the pincer still attached at one end), grilled crab (grilled by me at the table, less expertly), boiled crab, crab sushi (I’d have to admit to finding the crab sashimi a bit slimy, but the rolls were fantastic) and finally green tea ice cream. With the exception of dessert, everything about Kani Doraku is crab themed; the chopstick holders are crabs, the napkins depict crabs and scattered everywhere are little origami crabs [pictured, p41]. Suitably full on crab and more than a little sake, I emerge on the Dotombori and head into Kirin City, to sample some of the many excellent Japanese beers that never make it out of their homeland.

A long time later, I stumble elegantly out of Kirin City and start to make my way back to Umeda. I can’t resist partaking of one last Osakan culinary delight before I leave, so get some takoyaki from a stand. Takoyaki are deep friend balls of batter, smothered in okonomiyaki sauce and mayonnaise, with a little piece of octopus in the middle. The first one is delicious but finishing all six proves to be a challenge.

Back in Umeda, I return to the Multimedia Café to upload some more photos and - not quite ready to say goodbye to Osaka - I take the slow route back the hotel, stopping off for a beer or two and even finding room for some beef tataki.

Osaka is hailed as a paradise for those that enjoy good food. While I'm no gourmet, I certainly enjoy eating and have been treated to some unique and excellent dishes here. I never did get to see Osaka's castle, but when I really enjoy a city, it's my rule to try and reserve something for a subsequent visit. I'd be thrilled to return to Osaka one day and when I do, I'll keep my date with the indomitable fortress of Osaka-jo.