I get to the ryokan and my traditional tatami room is ideal. I sink into a chair, pour some tea and struggle with the idea of getting up again and going out for some dinner. I ask at the desk if there’s a restaurant nearby and am pointed in the direction of a local ramen place. Unfortunately it’s closed, so I stop at a convenience store and get snacks. Cheese sticks, nori crisps and jerky - not exactly what I had in mind, but I’m so hungry now it seems like a delicious feast. I pick up a six pack of Japanese beer as well. On the way back to my room, I’m forced to explain my questionable dinner to the lady at the front desk. She’s sorry that the ramen place was closed, but I smile and say it
doesn’t matter. A short time later, she brings a bowl of instant ramen to my room and I’m overwhelmed by this simple act of kindness. It’s been a pretty mixed day, but after a bit to eat and a dip in the onsen I’m feeling a lot better about Hakone.
I wake up early. The sky is bright blue this morning, a far cry from the grey of yesterday. I’m supposed to leave for Kyoto now, but I start to think about having another shot at seeing Fuji-san. I’m looking at two fifty minute bus journeys then a hurried check out and race to the train station, but I believe I can make it. I hurry to the bus stop and wait impatiently for the bus. I see the first hint of cloud gathering and start to wonder if this is such a good idea. The bus arrives and I get on. The next fifty minutes are quite stressful as I try to work out which direction the rapidly multiplying, though wispy, clouds are travelling in. Then, as the bus pulls into Moto Hakone, I'm stunned by the sight of a huge, symmetrical volcano that was definitely not there yesterday. It's so completely unexpected that in the time it takes me to realise that this is the view of Fuji that I had hoped for, the bus pulls off and continues on to Hakone Machi.
My eyes are locked on the mountain and when we arrive in Hakone Machi five minutes later, Fuji is still visible, but the covering of cloud known as Fuji’s Jacket is climbing higher. I get off the bus and take a good look. I was indeed looking at a little piece of Fuji yesterday, but - although this is the Free Pass recommended Fuji viewpoint - I am convinced that the better view was back at Moto Hakone, so I decide to head there before catching the return bus. I’m now racing against Fuji’s rising jacket, so jog through the Hakone Barrier, then run down the ancient cedar avenue.
I emerge from the trees at Moto Hakone and Fuji is almost wearing his full cirrus jacket now, but it’s still a fantastic sight, with the red of the Hakone Shrine bright against the trees and its reflection vivid in the lake. This was why I came to Hakone and I can forgive Fuji-san for his earlier modesty as – having had to work a little harder for it – seeing him now seems to be much more of an accomplishment. With my quest completed, I’m smiling from ear-to-ear for the entire bus ride back to Hakone Yumoto, and then the train to Odawara and the shinkansen to Kyoto.
doesn’t matter. A short time later, she brings a bowl of instant ramen to my room and I’m overwhelmed by this simple act of kindness. It’s been a pretty mixed day, but after a bit to eat and a dip in the onsen I’m feeling a lot better about Hakone.
I wake up early. The sky is bright blue this morning, a far cry from the grey of yesterday. I’m supposed to leave for Kyoto now, but I start to think about having another shot at seeing Fuji-san. I’m looking at two fifty minute bus journeys then a hurried check out and race to the train station, but I believe I can make it. I hurry to the bus stop and wait impatiently for the bus. I see the first hint of cloud gathering and start to wonder if this is such a good idea. The bus arrives and I get on. The next fifty minutes are quite stressful as I try to work out which direction the rapidly multiplying, though wispy, clouds are travelling in. Then, as the bus pulls into Moto Hakone, I'm stunned by the sight of a huge, symmetrical volcano that was definitely not there yesterday. It's so completely unexpected that in the time it takes me to realise that this is the view of Fuji that I had hoped for, the bus pulls off and continues on to Hakone Machi.
My eyes are locked on the mountain and when we arrive in Hakone Machi five minutes later, Fuji is still visible, but the covering of cloud known as Fuji’s Jacket is climbing higher. I get off the bus and take a good look. I was indeed looking at a little piece of Fuji yesterday, but - although this is the Free Pass recommended Fuji viewpoint - I am convinced that the better view was back at Moto Hakone, so I decide to head there before catching the return bus. I’m now racing against Fuji’s rising jacket, so jog through the Hakone Barrier, then run down the ancient cedar avenue.
I emerge from the trees at Moto Hakone and Fuji is almost wearing his full cirrus jacket now, but it’s still a fantastic sight, with the red of the Hakone Shrine bright against the trees and its reflection vivid in the lake. This was why I came to Hakone and I can forgive Fuji-san for his earlier modesty as – having had to work a little harder for it – seeing him now seems to be much more of an accomplishment. With my quest completed, I’m smiling from ear-to-ear for the entire bus ride back to Hakone Yumoto, and then the train to Odawara and the shinkansen to Kyoto.
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